Purmamarca

A wet start, but not too bad, The R9 was a bit narrow but became two lanes on the climb (all the slow moving trucks, I guess). The climbing was quite hard. I was disheartened that we weren't making much progress, but assured me were were, just that it was a long straight road that doesn't LOOK steep, but is.

We bought something calle quesillo and we weren't sure whether it was to be eaten raw or needed cooking. It looked like raw dough. The ten year old girl selling it form the farm assured us we could eat it and looked at us funny. How could she know we'd never seen quesillo before.

Later we bought some grapes from another house stall and peaches, as we wound through the multi-hued, colourful rock. It was in reds, blues, purples, white. Absolutely beautiful.

We got to Purmamara - Lods of hostels and backpackers. We've asked about the state of provision on R52. Nada.  This is going to mean careful water and food planning. Th chap at the campsite said that as far as he knows there are no shops, no villages and nowhere to pick up water. There is nothing there.

dist 50.41km

ride time 4:24:01

average 11.4kph

max 49.5kph max

starting alti 2275

trip alti 1016 

max alti 2281

Rain in Yala

Next morning, I went for a wee and li'l doggy was so so so pleased to see me. I was sad to leave her behind. She ran after us for quite a while and it broke my heart to leave her.
Ruta 9 ain't much fun to ride. It's rather narrow and cars don't always give you adequate room.
We stopped at Yala, 5km short of Lazano, where we were originally planning to stop, as at least we KNOW it has a decent campsite (and hot showers, clean loos and a pretty decent restaurant). The food here was excellent. I said so to the cook and he blushed. The rain is very heavy. I wonder if this is part of the weather system that's flooded Bolivia.

dist 44.64km
ride time 3:05:22
average 14.4kph
max 50kph max
starting alti 1400
trip alti 440
max alti 1459

Breakfast on the road - and interested mutts

Finally we got out of Salta and what a terrific ride. A winding, lush, mountain pass. Gentle inclines, long, slow descents, the road was winding and twisting around the sides of the mountain. We passed beautiful lakes, jungle like greenery (including a wonderful plant that coated tress making them gorilla arms). This road was the most fun to ride and I reckon a bike is the best way to see it.

Gorilla Arms

The campsite was 3km before the town, so a 70km day became a 77km day, going to and fro.
The campsite was almost empty, except for some scouts nearby who were rigging up ropes in the tree and later a group of tossers turned up to play their music at max volume, as is their wont in Argentina. They played the shitparade well into the night and then again in the morning.

A wee doggy (a brindle Jack Russel, a mild little thing) has taken to us and cuddled up with me in the evening, even though we haven't (and won't) feed her. I was sad to chuck her off the thermarest when it was bed time.

dist 77.53km
ride time 5:13:54
average 14.8kph
max 42.5kph
starting alti 1180
trip alti 644
max alti 1539

I feel much better today. I wasn't able to eat anything yesterday so today has been set aside for refuelling so we can get on the move again tomorrow. We're just not making much progress on this part of the trip. Both Al and I can't wait to get out of Argentina. It's frustrating and I've been ill three days now. It must have been the chicken at the buffet on Monday.

We're also a bit concerned about our multifuel stove. Al thinks there might be a probelm with the pump. We can't afford to have that break, as we'll probably be wild camping along the Ruta 52. It's a climb and only Susques for a place to get food.

The Argentinian couple camped  next to us left today. He played the trunpet, so went up in my estimation immediately. They gave us a demo CD of their band (Cumbia Choriza). The cover has a cartoon of the band members drawn as sausages. We have no means of playing it so we'll send it home.

As part of Operation Feed Me we stopped at a Parilla place and unbeknownst to us had ordered 2 bowls of chips, some bread and a mixed grill for two. Now, it might not be the wisest thing to eat greasy, barbecued food when recovering, but in Argentina, there really isn't very much choice.

This mixed grill would feed about 4 people with ribs, steak, sausages, intestines, kidneys, something weird that we thinks he said were uterus.It was sort of spongey and very peculiar.
All this was far too much for us so she halved it but still we couldn't manage it.

Ever since lunch, Al has been feeling unwell too, now. It's been sat in his stomach, going nowhere. Perhaps it's all that salt and fat in it. We watched the cook pick up salt by the handful and throw it over the food. I hope Al's not falling ill. We need to get out of Salta!

dist 47.24km
ride time 3:38:07
average 12.9kph
max 27.5kph
starting alti 1186
trip alti 102
max alti 1295

Sick in Salta

I got up and staggered to the loo block. Vomit and diarrhoea, I just wasn't sure which one first. This was every bit as bad as the case in France in Falaise.

I prefer a bit of privacy when I'm this ill and at that hour those loos are deserted, so I went a few more times.
During the day, I felt absolutely awful. I don't think I've ever felt worse. Even drinking water was hard to manage.I could barely move and I suspect I had barely a mineral salt left in me. Not being able to drink even water made me decide to take the immodium and a couple of sachets of rehydration mix.

Some hours later (and 3 more immodium and 4 sachets of dioralyte later) I began to feel bearable again. Not well but I could move. The short walk to the loo block was almost unbearable, but since the alternative is to poo right here, I did it. I could only move extremely slowly, I was so weak.

Over time, I eventually managed to have enough water to pee (excellent) so it being urgent I faced the squat loo. That was a mistake as I made a mess on the floor for facing the wrong way. Then I discovered the flush wasn't working but fortunately I'd been taking in a water bottle for clean ups (so much better than loo paper, which we didn't have anyway) so I managed to get the loo back into a usable condition.

Also, fortunately the afternoon has been cloudy, windy and overall much cooler than morning and previous days. I've been running a temperature, but not suffered from overheating in the sun today.

Salta

We cycled through a mad one-way system in Salta and in the centre found the main square. We set up base at a WiFi cafe, settling at a table right next to a power socket. Result!
Lots of Google-Earthing to check upcoming altitudes.
The place had a buffet for a set price, so we had lunch here. By 3pm we'd done what we needed and cycled back. All the shops were shut for their siesta, even though the air-conditioned shops remove any need to sleep off the heat of the day. I guess it's a habit, and helps them stay up all night to make lots of noise.
The one-way system again befuddled us and we ended up God knows where, turned a corner and hey presto, there was our road. Bizarre.
We had a barbecue that evening, as most (all?) Argentinian campsites have stone bbq for people to us. I don't think they ever cook by any other method.
That night we had dogs fighting in the area (cos they don't neuter their dogs here) and someone played music until about 3am.
I felt rather peculiar. I desperately wanted water, it was beyond thirsty. It felt like my life depended on it. I guzzled a load down and went back to sleep.
In the night I noticed my stomach was aching and I felt as though I ould be sick.

Arrival in Salta

We cycled to Salta. the road was pretty big but there are smaller roads that run parallel which we used. We did have one moron who gentle tooted behind us (an indication they're about to overtake) and he overtook and then did an immediate right turn, cutting us up in the process at great speed.

I nearly cycled into the side of him. I shouted hoarsely (I have lost my voice), so Al shouted "Knobber!!!" on my behalf.People waiting at a nearby bus stop, who'd seen the incident, shook their heads in disbelief.

The roads were scary big but we found our way around and spotted a sign for the campsite. We followed it but then no more appeared. We asked and no one knew of a campsite in the area.

We carried on further into Salta. Normally we communicate by shouting to each other while cycling along, but I've lost my voice so can only manage a hoarse croak. I found this frustrating.

Eventually we saw signs for municipal campsite  (nowhere NEAR where the earlier sign had pointed) which had hot showers, albeit nearly a mile from where we pitched our tent. The banos nearer to us were only squat loos in cubicles with either no locks or no doors at all. Using the squat loos later, I realised why people had removed the doors. They opened inwards and you nearly fell down the hole trying to leave the cubicle.

The campsite had the most enormous swimming pool I have ever seen and by evening, most day visitors had left. This meant a quiet night, which is quite the novelty.